Your DIY guide to a great writer’s retreat
When to come, where to write on Martha’s Vineyard
This week, we cross-post with Lis Bluford, who will add our itinerary to her resources on
(where you can find even more great guides to Martha’s Vineyard).Martha’s Vineyard is awash in literary history. Writers still thrive here, too. Maybe it’s the green of the fields and the trees and the blue of the ponds and ocean. Maybe it’s just being on an island. Something about this place inspires.
Take it from us: Few spots are better suited for a writer’s getaway than this historic bit of land off Massachusetts. Here are our suggestions for putting your own together.
First, pick a date
Plan your retreat around an Island literary event—there’s something to say for the synergy of being around other writers. Consider, for instance, the:
o Martha’s Vineyard Book Festival (Aug 1-3)
o Martha’s Vineyard Black Book Festival (Aug 9)
o Edgartown Library Author Fair (July 17)
o Islanders Write (Aug 17-18)
Or take a writing workshop:
o Nancy Aronie’s Chilmark Writing Workshop (multiple dates)
o Misty Meadows “Writing Through” (June 24-26)
o Martha’s Vineyard Creative Writing Institute Summer Writer’s Conference (June 15-20)
o Literary Arts at Featherstone (programs year-round)
Or—if it’s alone time you crave—come off-season (roughly between Indigenous People’s Day and Memorial Day), when the Island quiets and prices fall.
Next, make your travel plans
For tips on getting to, and getting around, the Island, this MVacay guide tells you everything you need to know.
For housing, there’s no way avoiding real estate reality: it’s expensive! We recommend checking out the listings on MVacay, including one of these nice but relatively affordable spots:
Vineyard Harbor Motel, in Vineyard Haven
Dockside Inn, in Oak Bluffs
Hostel: Martha’s Vineyard Hostel, in West Tisbury
Private apartment: Off-season, author Jan Brogan rents her Edgartown two-bedroom, two-bath guest apartment at a discount to writers on retreat. Contact her at JanBrogan
And of course there’s always AirBnB. Also try WeNeedaVacation, which specifically caters to the Vineyard, Nantucket, and Cape Cod.
Now, it’s time for writing fun
Grab a good read.
Books abound on the Island, which has six (!) public libraries. The towns of Vineyard Haven and Edgartown each have an independent bookstores—the Bunch of Grapes and Edgartown Books—with sections about the Island and books by local authors. (Here’s a great list of beach read books set on the Vineyard.)
Experiment at being a plein air writer.
Let nature refuel your creativity. Here are some of our favorite spots to sit and write:
o Polly Hill Arboretum. A small contribution is required but you stay as long as you want, from sun-up to sundown. Stroll in peaceful, uncrowded fields, pause inside the gated garden area known as Polly’s Playpen. Settle in and stay a while on the park benches or picnic tables scattered throughout.
o Field Gallery. The sculpture park, adjacent to the West Tisbury Library, is another lovely space to grab some inspiration. And it’s free.
o The hiking trails of the Land Bank or Sheriff’s Meadow Foundation. Charge up your laptop—and bring tick spray (we’re serious!)—then go write from one of the benches set along Martha’s Vineyard’s over 200 miles of trails. Most come with a view. (Pro tip: Download the trailsmv app and search “bench.”)
Prefer the great indoors?
Like things temperature-controlled and free wi-fi for your writing space? Here are some of our favorite writing spots:
● Edgartown library: An in-town library with good parking and two private study rooms. Call ahead to reserve a 2-hour block. (Reward yourself after with a stroll down Main Street & a visit to Edgartown Books.)
● West Tisbury library: Reserve a conference room online. Only 1-hour reservations allowed, but often the rooms are free for several hours at a time. Or just set up in the quiet study room. (Bonus: 7a which sells excellent baked goods, sandwiches, etc., is right across the street!)
● Oak Bluffs library: A lovely, open library space in which to read and write plus in summer there’s a late-night lounge area open until 8pm Tuesdays and Thursdays.
● Chilmark library: To reserve a meeting room, conference room, or study pod, call the library at 508-645-3360, email to chil_mail@clamsnet.org, or stop by the library and talk to a staff member.
● Featherstone Center for the Arts Writing Hours. A comfortable book-lined conference room in the Art Barn library. Ample natural light, good wi-fi. Before or after the Sunday 1-3pm writing hours explore the art gallery exhibits or walk the extensive pastoral grounds.
Need a nosh?
Who writes well on an empty stomach? Not us! When hunger strikes or you need a caffeine hit, here are some places to head:
· Down-island:
La Strada: Vineyard Haven’s stop for Italian sandwiches and salads, espresso and wine too. Take your notebook and enjoy the nibbles in the hushed wine cellar downstairs.
Behind the Bookstore: The name says it all! A shaded garden behind Edgartown Books, right off Main Street. Delicious food and—post-writing session—you can grab a cocktail at its Hemingway Bar.
Get something to-go from Rosewater Market or Edgartown Meat & Fish Market (great sushi) and enjoy it on the benches at the Edgartown Wharf. While mulling over a potential plot twist, you can watch the sailboats and Chappy Ferry.
On Oak Bluffs’ main drag, Circuit Avenue, the crowds can get a little crazy in summer. So grab a sandwich or chowder at one of the many terrific cafes and take it a block over in the historic Methodist campground’s outdoor Tabernacle.
● Up-island:
The Chilmark General Store, across the road from the local library, is the place to grab a slice and people-watch from the porch.
o In Menemsha: The covered back porch of The Galley, overlooking the harbor, is a great place to hang and enjoy a burger or soft-serve. Or try the Menemsha Fish market for clam chowder, lobster bisque, pricy-but-good lobster rolls you can enjoy on picturesque Dutcher Dock.
Before you return to America: Celebrate!
Celebrate yourself—your talent, your dedication, your productive DIY writing retreat. Some of our favorite places to splurge when celebrating writing wins:
o Vineyard Haven’s Beach Road Restaurant. There’s almost always room at the bar. Splurge on the pricey but worth-it all-beef hot dog with kimchi, fries. (Check out the Trusted Tables review here.)
o Oak Bluff’s The Sweet Life. Off-season a great cozy bar; live piano music Thursday nights. In season, enjoy the garden.
And if you don’t already, subscribe to Substack’s best guide to Vineyard travel:
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This turned out so beautifully! I loved seeing all the creative spots that inspire you. I know my readers (and writers!) will find so much value in this. Thanks again for the thoughtful collaboration! 📝✨
Thanks, Liz, for this helpful list. Maybe it's time I took a writing staycation on Island and visited some of the spots you mention. As I had never heard of the Edgartown Library Author Fair, I checked the link. It doesn't seem to be listed on the Library's website. Was that a former event that won't happen this year?